The view from our window

....Like the ocean....

Our candomble "guide" urged us (when we were clearly getting a tad impatient with the process) to "be like the ocean" and simply let everything wash over us. Point well taken, especially given the trip to Ouro Preto. The plane could not land in Bel and o Horizonte as the airport was closed there. After circling a while we were diverted to Sao Paolo where we were transfered back onto another plane returning to B.H. There our drive finally arrived after several last minute calls to the agency. "Gustavo" (who spoke no English) turned out to not actually be "Gustavo" but his friend who took us through a maze of streets to an isolated one where we were told we would need to switch cars as this one was "muito pequeno." So...the "real" Gustavo showed up and prepared for the trip to Ouro Preto ......now it is after 9:30, it is raining and very foggy . The road was closed three times during the trip due to accidents. Most disconcerting especially as it quickly went from multi-lane to mountain pass. Finally arrived after midnight and then had to find the posada - addresses not being quite what we expect them to be.
The Pousada Chico Rei is an 18th century house with 18th century furniture and 18th century "issues." Clean and pleasant, but "interesting." Ouro Preto is strictly a mountainous town. If there is a flat road here we have not found it. (Pictures will be attached, I hope).
Today we went out to the largest gold mine in the Americas (no longer active).
Unlike Salvador where you are wet because you sweat, here you are wet because it rains.......all the time, but lightly.
Tonight will be New Year's Eve at Bene da Flauta - a restaurant that appears to be particularly nice. .....it will be even nicer if the shower is working by that time.

There's a sucker born every minute....

Next to the last day in Salvador, not willing to repeat stuff, had a chance to see an "authentic" candomble ceremony - the last of the year. Great "street salesman," actual office with VISA machines and all. Pick up by 6 - home by 9: 30 - 8 of you. Right! What and experience with the way things work (or not). Pick up was fairly timely, then driven to the town center in a small car where we'll join the others. Wait......wait......wait.......walk two blocks to the bus pick up because the streets are too small. Okay. Several people join......bus seems big. Then we begin an unbelieveable journey through the city picking up more and more and more people.......now we're 30. Doubling back, waiting......waiting......doubling back some more.....and still more.....then traveling further and further to get people. Now begins the journey that seemed like we might wind up in another state. By 8:30 we're finally somewhere in a favela and ushered off the bus. The "show" then begins. I'd read some about candomble and had a previous experience in a camdomble house. Not what I expected. Odd random dancing about, detached movement, drumming, singing (?). While we were told no photos members of the house are shooting the process on their cell phones amidst great apparent glee. Celebrants disappear.......costume change......come out smoking cigarettes and cigars while executing the rituals.......now add hard liquor......encourage observers to participate (shuffle dancing one-by-one) ......like a show that doesn't know when to end it goes on and on but nothing happens......to or for anyone much. "Leader" paces back and forth, smoking, drinking, occasionally shuffling, occasionally hugging all and sundry in turn.......hot....sweaty.....yuk!.......Begin to think prayer might not be such a bad idea. Surely something will bring this to an end. A kind of ritual cleansing (soft swiping with bush branches) followed by a baptism of sorts.....from a pot of milky looking fluid poured over one's head (not mine, mind you).......more hugs.......an unknown substance offered to drink in plastic cups.........I think not.......more cigars........a small fire with a small "pop" in the middle of the floor lit by cigars...........finally, finally it's over. Have seen no sense of real involvement or release or anything else on the part of either participant or observer. Got home late.......ahhh...

Elevator from the upper to the lower city

1. This elevator is used by 60,000 people a day

The end of the placement

Today was our last day at our placement. As a "grande sopresa" our students brought a feast. Homemade "typical" cakes, bread and fruit. It was very touching, especially considering how little they have. Lots of hugs and "obrigada/thank you" all around. We were told they don't do this for everyone so it was particularly moving. We were so fearful that we hadn't done enough - and, indeed, it was so little - but they were so appreciative. Since Chuck had dealt with food and cooking for several days his studenst were able to explain to me (with considerable pride) what had been cooked "in the oven" and what had been done "on the stove." "In" and "on" being somewhat difficult abstractions.

A 17th century Portuguese house now the home of a cermacist who is the only person legally able to restore the ancient tiles in the city.

The new computer is driving me to distraction. I just finished what I had hoped was an insightful - and long - message, only to have it disappear into the ether. I shall try again.
We have finished the first week with (at least for me) a feeling of mixed success. The concept of "class" needed to be radically redefined. Attendance is "flexible" to say the least. There may be one student or six. Some may have been there before, some never. Three of my students are treasurers - high school or better and clearly very bright, but shy and reluctant to make a mistake. Chuck's "ladies" are also highly motivated and anxious to learn so the atmosphere is positive, but sometimes frustrating.
The staff here is marvelous as are the leaders of the communities. Clearly educated people who have chosed to make a commitment to nurturing the gradual - and I mean gradual - evolution of those within these extraordinary living circumstances. "Borrowed" electricity and water, frequently no sewage, and yet the desire to somehow find a better way. Our situation is probably closer to the "norm" (and yet how far!) The people who are involved in caring for the tiny ones - maybe 2 people for 25 toddlers - and one wonders how on earth any real benefit occurs. Yet - two meals, a safe place to play, clean clothes and a daily bath are such a marked improvement from what might be expected that everything is put into new perspective. The idea of teaching sharing and taking turns is a radical introduction into their lives. Some are obviously so smart it's stunning.
The idea of really "teaching a unit" simply cannot occur. We can introduce some things, try to answer questions, do our best. The staff feels the very fact we are here is the real benefit - to see and be seen. My Portuguese, of necessity, gets better It is obviously impossible to communicate an explanation without a familiar language, although my group is resourceful with their dictionaries. Still, it is a slow process. Hours looking up words and trying to find a way to explain abstractions. Nouns are easy. Irregular past tense not so much.
The idea of not coming in and "trying to make it right" is sometimes difficult to comes to terms with. Just being here and doing a little something is the goal. The staff has such a lovely attitude about gradual growth/improvement/possibilities. Baby steps, not upsetting the apple cart and throwing the baby out with the bathwater, to mix a metaphor or two.
We're also able to do some supplementary stuff. This weekend included a boat trip to two tropical islands - Itaparica and Ilhus dos Frades on a small schooner with a 4 person band that played for about 5 hours.
The heat can be oppressive and the humidity equally so. Our "quarters" are tinier than tiny and exceedingly spartan, but clean. The food that is prepared is generous and of the traditional kind. Lots of fresh fruit, beans and rice and always something special.
Today we treated ourselves to a churrascaria where there was a salad bar that set the standard and "waiters" with skewers of about 15 kinds of meats circulating through the restaurant anxious to slice off a bit for you to taste.
Home now and ready to prepare the lessons for tomorrow, wondering who may show up and how it will be possible to reach them in a way that might make a difference.

The last two days have been very interesting - and also very difficult. We are the only two people who have "homework" that must be done each night in preparation for class the next day. The others have a much harder time during their work sessions caring fotier many children in a variety of care facilities.....some squirmy worms with high energy and curiosity. They are. community sponsored day care centers, an orphanage, and a center for children whose parents either have died or are dying of AIDS and they may be affected themselves We spent an hour with one of them yesterday and were tired just with the little we observed and interacted.
Getting lesson plans is a two step operation. First figure out in English what needs to be taught and then grappling with enough Portuguese to be able to explain it. The students seem to be getting more comfortable and were willing to speak today and to give me instructions using the vocabulary we had developed. It was difficult for them, but then they made me do the same in Portuguese so they knew it was just as difficult for me.
Chuck's group keeps changing day-by-day so his challenges with the beginners is to keep the repeat students interested while not overwhelming the new students.
Yesterday we were able to visit several sections of Salvadore including an open market, which is an experience in itself (pictures to follow, without the goat's head!), a museum of modern art (unfortunately undergoing renovation but providing a beautiful view of the bay, and the first fort built by the Portuguese in Brazil.
We have found a great place for a pre-dinner caiperinha (the local drink) and take a few minutes for ourselves in the middle of the day.
The city, like most, is a study in great contrast as some of the pictures will reveal.
Next time I hope to write more about the amazing attitudes we've encountered among the professional staff with their quiet commitment to making a gradual, positive impact without trying to upset the apple cart.

Oh-the-job

Today was the first official day at work in the small school in the favela. We have teen-agers and adults who have had between 4 months and no experience in English. They are very eager to learn and some are very quick. The first half hour or so was fairly hairy getting oriented and figuring out what might work best. We wound up splitting the group into "newbies" who went with Chuck and the more "experienced" who stayed with me. Let's say it's a fair description that it was a learning experience for all of us. It's amazing how your Portuguese improves when you actually have to communicate. They are very patient, though, so it would appear that it will work out. Back afterward is to prepare for tomorrow's lessons.
It is extremely hot here over 90 most of the day. We still walk, though. Most areas are quite safe during the day and we try to take advantage of that.
I can hardly wait to show you the photos of our "quarters" - and by that I mean about 1/4 of a room. At least we have our own bath, unlike the others who share with m-a-n-y people. Water cannot be drunk directly, the "does not accept paper of any kind" (and you can figure out what that means), and rules for use of water are extremely strict - as in don't let it run while you wash the dishes (or, ideally, yourself).

First days in Brazil

We are officially in Brazil - Salvador - and spent the last few days in the area Pelorinho, the historic district in the Pousada Redfiish, a restored 17th century (large) house. It is very warm - in the high 80's but slightly cooler at night. Once I figure out how to transfer photos I'll forward some lovely ones. Last night we went to the Ballet Folklorico de Bahia and saw some authentic dancing and the stylized "fight/dance" the capoeira. The food has been excellent and we're trying out everything on the menu we don't undertand so we'll learn what that means. Good choices so far. see
Today we transferred to the center - a spartan circumstance in a newer and much busier part of town. Staff seems most pleasant and we've met a couple of the people, so we shall see.

Getting ready for another adventure

Chuck and I are in the final stages of our preparations for a month in Brazil. The first two weeks we'll be volunteering and facilitating English language classes in a "very poor" neighborhood near Salvador, Bahia. (But we've also arranged bookend weekends at a Pousada on/near the beach!) After that we'll travel to Ouro Preto where we'll experience Reveillon (New Year's Eve) and briefly to Recife where we hope to visit with acquaintances there. If I can learn how to download photos we'll keep you up-to-date visually as well.