There's a sucker born every minute....

Next to the last day in Salvador, not willing to repeat stuff, had a chance to see an "authentic" candomble ceremony - the last of the year. Great "street salesman," actual office with VISA machines and all. Pick up by 6 - home by 9: 30 - 8 of you. Right! What and experience with the way things work (or not). Pick up was fairly timely, then driven to the town center in a small car where we'll join the others. Wait......wait......wait.......walk two blocks to the bus pick up because the streets are too small. Okay. Several people join......bus seems big. Then we begin an unbelieveable journey through the city picking up more and more and more people.......now we're 30. Doubling back, waiting......waiting......doubling back some more.....and still more.....then traveling further and further to get people. Now begins the journey that seemed like we might wind up in another state. By 8:30 we're finally somewhere in a favela and ushered off the bus. The "show" then begins. I'd read some about candomble and had a previous experience in a camdomble house. Not what I expected. Odd random dancing about, detached movement, drumming, singing (?). While we were told no photos members of the house are shooting the process on their cell phones amidst great apparent glee. Celebrants disappear.......costume change......come out smoking cigarettes and cigars while executing the rituals.......now add hard liquor......encourage observers to participate (shuffle dancing one-by-one) ......like a show that doesn't know when to end it goes on and on but nothing happens......to or for anyone much. "Leader" paces back and forth, smoking, drinking, occasionally shuffling, occasionally hugging all and sundry in turn.......hot....sweaty.....yuk!.......Begin to think prayer might not be such a bad idea. Surely something will bring this to an end. A kind of ritual cleansing (soft swiping with bush branches) followed by a baptism of sorts.....from a pot of milky looking fluid poured over one's head (not mine, mind you).......more hugs.......an unknown substance offered to drink in plastic cups.........I think not.......more cigars........a small fire with a small "pop" in the middle of the floor lit by cigars...........finally, finally it's over. Have seen no sense of real involvement or release or anything else on the part of either participant or observer. Got home late.......ahhh...